There are few crafts where innovation and heritage can coexist as naturally as they do in horology. Mechanical ingenuity is inseparable from history, culture, and a deep-rooted commitment to artistry. At this year’s Watches & Wonders in Geneva, that balance felt more evident than ever, as 2026 is a year of anniversaries, and these milestones lend the fair a sense of occasion. As the maisons revisit and refine the icons that have shaped their identity, their approach seems measured and restrained; evolution rather than reinvention. Across the event, several themes emerge: the continued pursuit of miniaturisation, the architectural appeal of open-worked dials, and a renewed fascination with stone. Alongside these, some awe-inspiring technical innovations remind the world why this craft continues to captivate. The sheer breadth of inventiveness makes any edit a challenge. What follows is a considered selection of some of the most compelling and covetable timepieces unveiled this year.

BVLGARI OCTO FINISSIMO 37
Bvlgari introduces a much-anticipated smaller, 37mm, edition of its modern classic, the Octo Finissimo. With a brand new movement and even a reworked bracelet, this refines one of contemporary watchmaking’s most distinctive (and successful) forms into a much more versatile case size. Achieving this presented the maison with immense technical challenges, but it was well worth it as the new models offer genuinely noticeable improvements. The yellow gold reference with the brushed dial and monochrome details is an absolute stunner; a natural evolution of Bvlgari’s uber-impressive Octo Finissimo collection.

CARTIER SANTOS-DUMONT YELLOW GOLD WITH OBSIDIAN DIAL
The iconic Santos-Dumont LM returns with a reinvented fine mesh, multi-link bracelet that brings so much élan and presence. The most impressive of the three new offerings is a yellow gold model with a striking obsidian dial (a wafer-thin sliver of polished volcanic stone). There are also references with silvered dials, in platinum and yellow gold. With this new bracelet, the Santos-Dumont takes on a more fluid, contemporary character without losing any of its signature sophistication.

HERMÈS H08 SQUELETTE
The cushion-shaped case of the H08 has become one of the maison’s most recognisable modern design successes. It has seen different colour, materials, even a complication (a mono-pusher chronograph) in recent years. Now, in this Squelette, Hermès retains the 39mm case construction of the original, but renders it in black DLC-treated sandblasted titanium with a ceramic bezel. The openworked dial reveals the new H1978 skeleton movement which is lightweight, architectural, and beats at 4Hz precision, offering a 60-hour power reserve.

JAEGER-LECOULTRE MASTER CONTROL CHRONOMÈTRE DATE POWER RESERVE
One of the most compelling launches at the fair is the new Master Control Chronomètre, an ultra-thin integrated bracelet sports watch family from Jaeger-LeCoultre. The ‘watchmaker of watchmakers’ presents three restrained yet confident models: a Time/ Date, a Date/Power Reserve, and a Perpetual Calendar, available in either steel or pink gold. For us, the standout is the Date/Power Reserve, distinguished by its beautifully judged proportions and quiet sophistication. The 39mm case frames two circular sub-dials at 3 and 9 o’clock, displaying the date and power reserve respectively. Powered by the new Calibre 738, it is a considered study in proportion, surface, and precision.

ORIS STAR
In the annals of Swiss watchmaking, the Oris Star marked a significant milestone when it was released in 1966, not only for Oris but also for most other brands in the industry. This year Oris is releasing a very faithful reissue of that timepiece to mark 60 years since its era-defining introduction. Looking up the history of the Swiss Watch Statute is fascinating, but even those unfamiliar with the story will appreciate the charm of this 35mm steel case with its barrel silhouette, silver dial and plexiglass crystal, all of which capture perfectly the understated charm of mid-century watchmaking.

PARMIGIANI FLEURIER TONDA PF CHRONOGRAPHE MYSTÉRIEUX
To mark its 30th anniversary, Parmigiani Fleurier unveils the TONDA PF Chronographe Mystérieux, a complication hidden away in plain sight. At first glance, it appears as a pure three-hand Tonda PF, with a wonderful barleycorn guilloché dial in mineral blue, a 40mm steel case, and a platinum bezel. There are no visible chronograph sub-dials or conventional cues. Yet a discreet pusher at 7.30 transforms everything, activating a concealed mechanical choreography beneath the dial. It is a piece that impresses as much for its refinement as for its audacious technical imagination. Easily one of our favourites from the fair and a masterclass in horological inventiveness.

PATEK PHILIPPE NAUTILUS 50TH ANNIVERSARY 38MM PLATINUM LIMITED EDITION
Half a century on, the Gérald Genta-designed classic remains one of the most coveted sports watches in the world. To mark the anniversary of its signature rounded octagonal case, Patek Philippe has introduced a series of pared-back, time-only references. Of these, the elegant 38mm in platinum (a limited edition of 2,000) is our favourite. Its refreshingly uncluttered dial, combined with the ultra-thin Calibre 240 and a discreet anniversary inscription on the rotor, makes it a compelling proposition for collectors.

ROLEX OYSTER PERPETUAL COSMOGRAPH DAYTONA IN ROLESIUM
Rolex is celebrating 100 years of the iconic Oyster case, and as expected, it has unveiled a suite of considered, cautious iterations around this theme. While attention may naturally gravitate towards the colourful dial of the Oyster Perpetual 36 (Jubilee Edition) or the return of the Yacht-Master II, it’s the Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona that’s the showstopper for us. Rendered in Rolesium (steel and platinum), it features a white grand feu enamel dial made up of four parts and an anthracite grey bezel, giving this off-catalogue piece a distinctly refined presence. More interestingly, this is a watch defined by meticulous material execution and technical finesse to the degree that perhaps only a behemoth like Rolex can undertake. It is a self-assured expression of the crown’s enduring commitment to precision and savoir-faire.

TUDOR MONARCH
To mark 100 years of Tudor, the vintage-inspired Monarch brings an unexpected edge. Its angular 39mm case and finely faceted integrated bracelet frame a vertically brushed, papyrus-toned dial with applied Roman and Arabic numerals. Beneath the surface is a METAS Master Chronometer certification, underscoring the brand’s pursuit of technical excellence and manufacturing rigour.

VACHERON CONSTANTIN OVERSEAS ULTRA-THIN 2500V
Thinness has long been one of watchmaking’s most demanding pursuits, challenging the industry since its earliest days. The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Ultra-Thin 2500V builds on more than a century of the maison’s own expertise in this field, culminating in the thinnest Overseas ever created. At just 7.35mm, it houses an in-house self-winding movement developed over seven years, delivering an impressive 80-hour power reserve. Rendered in platinum, with a warm salmon dial, this reference is limited to 255 individually numbered pieces, available exclusively through Vacheron Constantin boutiques.

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS MIDNIGHT JOUR NUIT PHASE DE LUNE
For over a century, Van Cleef & Arpels has approached time not as something to be measured, but as something to be experienced, often through the lens of the cosmos. That fascination finds new expression in the Midnight Jour Nuit Phase de Lune, a Poetic Complication that reflects the maison’s enduring dialogue with the night sky. The watch brings together two overlapping indications: the signature Jour/Nuit display and a moonphase complication. Black Murano aventurine glass and shimmering bronze specks evoke a starlit sky punctuated by a golden guilloché sun and a mother-of-pearl moon. The impressive mechanical complications are in service to the romance and storytelling of this gorgeous piece, and the narrative extends even to the stunningly decorated reverse side of the watch.

ZENITH BLOODSTONE G.F.J. LIMITED EDITION
This year, Zenith introduces two new models into its award-winning G.F.J. line, the collection that revived one of the brand’s most important historic movements, Calibre 135. Of the two models, the yellow gold ‘Bloodstone’, a limited edition of 161 pieces, stands out. Defined by a striking natural jasper bloodstone dial (of which no two examples can be identical) and an oversized mother-of-pearl sub-dial at 6 o’clock, this 39.5mm watch balances texture with thoughtful detail. Its patterned, guilloché outer ring also subtly pays tribute to the brick façade of Zenith’s manufacture in Le Locle.

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Images: Supplied