If you’ve had access to the internet this past week, you’ve probably heard that Alix Earle launched an acne brand called Reale Actives. The 25-year-old influencer first entered the spotlight as a student at the University of Miami by posting “get ready with me” videos, party vlogs, and venting about her hormonal acne on TikTok. She’s turned the latter into a full-fledged skin-care line with the help of her dermatologist, Dr. Kiran Mian, and on March 31, released four products for acne-prone skin: a cleansing balm, gel cleanser, moisturizer, and mandelic acid serum, all ranging from $28 to $39 and housed in mint green and silver packaging. On the brand’s launch day, Earle’s 14 million followers cleaned house—according to Puck, Reale Actives hit $1 million in sales in less than five minutes and the company sold out of their inventory by 4 p.m. Sounds like something to celebrate, right? Well, not quite.

Like many influencer brands, the launch incited quite a bit of controversy online. We went ahead and chatted with six dermatologists to get their expert opinions. Let’s get into it, shall we?

Why are people mad about Alix Earle’s skin-care line?

On social media, people appear to be confused by the brand’s marketing approach—the photoshoot for the launch features a mostly nude, very wet Earle with clear, smooth skin, which people say is counterintuitive for an acne brand. Fair. Still, we should’ve seen this coming. Last December, Earle told Allure that she was on a mission to make acne “sexy and hot.” Apparently, that didn’t translate well for some consumers. “For me, this campaign is extra confusing because she doesn’t have acne in it,” Charlotte Palermino, esthetician and founder of Dieux Skin, wrote on Instagram. “Are you making acne hot, or are you just hot?”

Online critics also claim that the messaging makes it seem like Earle’s products alone cured her acne. They’ve pointed out that she’s completed three rounds of Accutane and is currently taking spironolactone, a drug that can treat hormonal acne in women. Although Earle has been open over the years about taking these medications, the TikTok skin-care police seem to think it disqualifies her from selling any kind of acne products.

Visuals aside, some are upset about a couple ingredients in her products—specifically about the presence of shea butter, a rich, plant-based emollient in her Dew More moisturizer. Some TikTokkers claim the ingredient is comedogenic and pore-clogging. Another question consumers seem to have is regarding her mandelic acid serum, Go Deep. “The only oil soluble acid is salicylic acid and it’s so good for acne that it’s an FDA-approved drug,” esthetician and skin-care brand founder, Renee Rouleau, said on Instagram. “If mandelic was so good for acne, surely somebody would have put it on the monograph and made it FDA-approved for acne and no one has.”

Okay… so what are dermatologists saying about the Reale Actives range?

The dermatologists Allure spoke with do not have the products in their possession and have not physically tried the brand. So far, though, they seem to be on board with Get Bare, Earle’s cleansing balm that lists squalane, green tea extract, and vitamin E as key ingredients. “Oil-based cleansers, like this one, are very effective at dissolving and removing sunscreen and makeup, especially when used as part of a double-cleanse routine,” says Dr. Sandra Oska, a board-certified dermatologist based in Los Angeles. “As long as you are using a cleanser afterwards to wash off the balm residue well, the ingredients in this should be safe for some acne-prone patients.”

It seems that Earle’s moisturizer, Dew More, is causing the biggest commotion because it includes shea butter. Now, it’s true that people with oily or acne-prone skin are often advised to avoid it since its dense texture can lead to clogged pores and breakouts. “This would not be my first choice for a moisturizer for acne-prone patients, given the presence of shea butter,” says Dr. Oska. While she acknowledges that shea butter is packed with fatty acids that support the skin barrier, she says its high stearic and oleic acid content can worsen clogged pores in select users. “Not all acne-prone patients react to shea butter in products,” she says, “but some do not tolerate it and know that from trial and error.”

Dr. Anna Karp, a board-certified dermatologist and assistant clinical professor of dermatology at NYU School of Medicine, says that referring to shea butter just as a comedogenic is an oversimplification. “I think it is about the overall formulation and not the shea butter itself,” she says. “I know it was thoughtfully put into this product as being non-comedogenic in the overall formulation.” Dr. Oska also acknowledges this: “Now, formulation does matter, and this formula is well-balanced and barrier-focused,” she says. “In a patient who is dealing with oily skin and closed comedones, I would practice caution.”

Amanda Lam, a cosmetic chemist, says Dew More looks like a nice moisturizer for acne-prone skin—she also says the inclusion of shea butter makes sense here and points out that it’s featured in other acne moisturizers on the market. “Shea butter is non-comedogenic and nourishes the skin and helps to improve the skin barrier,” she says. “I think because it is so thick, people fear that it will get trapped in the pores or that it is too greasy for acne prone skin.” Still, we don’t know the exact amount Reale Actives has added to the product. “If there is a high amount of shea butter, then we can expect this formula to feel more rich and emollient,” Lam says. “But if it is used at a lower use level, which I am assuming it is in this formula, and paired with lighter emollients, then it will feel very cosmetically elegant and light with a little bit of cushion.”

When it comes to Reale Actives’ gel cleanser, Pore Power, Dr. Kavita Mariwalla, a board-certified dermatologist in West Islip, New York, says it’s a good, once-a-day product for moderate acne patients with oily skin. It contains lipohydroxy acid (LHA) and beta hydroxy acid (BHA) which can help unclog pores, reduce blackheads, and improve overall skin texture, Dr. Karp adds. “However, because this is a cleanser, a wash-off product, the contact time is limited,” she points out. “So while it can support acne management, it’s not going to be as potent as a leave-on exfoliant. I think similar cleansers exist at better price points.”

Another ingredient people online are asking questions about is mandelic acid, an exfoliant found in Go Deep. “For me, I love mandelic acid but I don't think of it for acne at all. Mandelic acid is really for pigment,” says Dr. Mariwalla. “Now, don't get me wrong, it is a large molecule alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), which means it is not irritating, but I also don't think of this as solving active inflammatory acne.” While she says the ingredient can help with post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, she adds it likely won’t do anything for an active breakout. For her patients, she’d position the product as a gentle way to reduce brown spots from acne.

Dr. Gervaise Gerstner, a board-certified dermatologist based in New York City, takes no issue with its inclusion. “Acids like mandelic acid and glycolic acid can help reduce oiliness and improve acne by increasing cell turnover, which also helps with dark spots, pigmentation, and even some scarring,” she says. “I often recommend finding a combination that works best for your skin, since everyone tolerates these ingredients differently.”

Dr. Karp says mandelic acid is one of her favorite AHAs for acne-prone and sensitive skin. “The ingredients sound appropriate, and yes, this type of serum can absolutely deliver on its claims if used consistently,” she says. “For acne-prone patients, this is generally a safe option, particularly for those who can’t tolerate stronger exfoliants.” Her opinion? Go Deep is the best product in the line.

How did Accutane and spironolactone get dragged into this?

Earle has detailed, many times, her three experiences of going on Accutane—the first round she did not complete, the second she says she “messed up” because she didn’t refill the prescription on time, and the third round she seemingly completed fully. She’s now taking 100mg of spironolactone daily. Although Earle has openly talked about her use of these medications for years now, people online are saying she’s being dishonest in her brand’s messaging. They argue that the products from Reale Actives didn’t cure her acne alone since she’s had the help of these medications, and they’re not wrong—but while the before-and-after photos on Reale Actives’ website may feel misleading, Earle herself has never said the lineup of four products will cure acne.

The brand name for isotretinoin, Accutane is an oral acne medication used to treat severe acne cases. “Accutane directly causes long-lasting shrinkage of oil glands and dramatic reduction in their sebum production,” says Dr. Oska. “Sebaceous glands sit deep in the dermis and only Accutane significantly remodels them.”

The medication comes with a long list of side effects, including dryness, nausea, and muscle pain, and requires patients to complete monthly blood work and pregnancy tests (the drug can cause severe birth defects, so two forms of birth control is also necessary if the patient is sexually active). Accutane dramatically reduces oil production, normalizes skin cell turnover, and decreases inflammation, according to Dr. Karp. “It’s best for severe scarring, or treatment-resistant acne but anyone with acne can take it,” she says. “I often prescribe it as a lower dose for milder acne because it is so effective.” She says isotretinoin can lead to long-term remission, but it’s not always a permanent cure.

Dr. Lauren Moy, a board-certified dermatologist in Beverly Hills, says that good candidates for the drug are “patients with severe nodular acne, those who have failed standard oral and topical therapies, and patients experiencing acne-related scarring or significant psychosocial distress.” The medication is usually taken over a course of six to nine months and requires monthly appointments and monitoring by a dermatologist. And while patients on Accutane can benefit from cleansing balms and gentle face washes, Dr. Oska does not recommend Reale Active’s Pore Power cleanser for anyone taking the drug because of the exfoliants included. “Patients already on isotretinoin should instead use a gentle cleanser without exfoliating acids,” she says. “Their barrier is likely already dry, irritated, and flaky so their cleanser should not feature additional actives.”

Spironolactone, on the other hand, was approved by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) in 1960 to treat high blood pressure and heart failure, but it’s recently been used as an off-label treatment for hormonal acne in women. Dr. Mariwalla says she typically prescribes it to patients with cysts along their jawline that are painful and hard to treat. From 2017 to 2020, the prescription rates of spironolactone for acne in women rose by nearly 300%, according to a study in JAMA Dermatology. Hailey Bieber has spoken about taking the drug to keep her glazed donut skin clear of breakouts. “It pulls this off by blocking the effect of androgens at the level of the sebaceous gland which, in turn, reduces oil production at the source,” says Dr. Oska. “It does not permanently shrink sebaceous glands, like isotretinoin, though. If spironolactone is stopped, the hormonal-pattern acne can return.” Typically, it works best for long-term maintenance, she adds.

Bottom line, how effective is Reale Actives?

There isn’t a single topical beauty product on the market that can replicate the effects of medications like Accutane or spironolactone (although there is a topical spironolactone). To be fair, Earle isn’t explicitly saying that her products will cure your acne. Even if someone has taken acne medications before, like Earle, they’ll still need products to effectively take care of their skin and maintain their results—breakouts can continue to happen, after all.

“Topicals like retinoids, salicylic acid, and benzoyl peroxide help manage acne on the surface in various ways, such as decreasing excess sebum, decreasing inflammation, or unclogging pores,” says Dr. Toral Vaidya, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City. “Those with moderate to severe acne likely require a combination of topical and oral agents.” Dr. Vaidya says acne regimens, for those with moderate to severe acne, are most effective when there’s synergy between the two. “Since prescription oral medications like spironolactone and Accutane work systemically, they are far more effective in managing more severe, cystic acne compared to topical treatments alone,” she says.

Dr. Oska takes a broad, accepting view of Earle’s line and the use of acne drugs. “Having been on Accutane or spironolactone should not disqualify Alix Earle or anyone else from creating a skin care line,” she says. “She has used her platform to create awareness around acne and its impact on mental health, so her skin care line feels like an extension of that goal. In my opinion, there will always be a role for spironolactone and isotretinoin, as these are commonly utilized medical therapies for moderate-to-severe acne or acne that has not responded to traditional topical therapies.”

Although this brand is being marketed as an acne brand, some derms aren’t so sure of its efficacy. “From a clinical perspective, this line is for people with minimal acne or for those on prescription treatments who want a dark spot corrector or moisturizer,” says Dr. Mariwalla. “Patients should not think that buying each component of this line will resolve acneic skin.” Again, this isn’t what Earle is saying, and she acknowledges that there’s no one-size-fits-all solution to skincare. What’s worked for her or other acne-prone folks may not work for you, and vice versa.

“These products are best suited for people with mild to moderate acne, combination to oily skin, or those looking to maintain results after prescription treatment,” Dr. Karp says. “Overall it is a good routine for mild to moderate acne if you use all of these products, but I would want to combine it with a retinol of some sort.” If you’re considering trying out new skin-care products for acne, it’s best to consult your dermatologist first.

What’s Earle saying about all of this?

The Reale Actives founder posted a response to her critics on TikTok where she laid out her recent skin-care experiences. She says the last time she used Accutane was towards the end of 2022. She started taking spironolactone in the fall of 2023. Working with her dermatologist—and Reale Actives’ director of clinical innovation—Dr. Kiran Mian, she started using what would become her skin-care line in April 2025.

Earle isn’t claiming that these four products cured her hormonal acne. She very openly takes 100mg of spironolactone a day and also uses other skin-care products, such as the Anua rice serum and Epicutus lipid serum. Does her skin look great? Absolutely. Does that mean her routine is for everyone? No, of course not. “I’m not here to lie, I'm not here to try and trick anyone,” Earle says in the video. “My skin has never been this consistently clear in my entire life. It’s what I use. If you believe me, you believe me. If you don’t, whatever.”

Read more about acne:

• 3 Types of Acne Scars and How To Treat Them
• I Thought It Was Acne. Turns Out, It Was Lupus.
• The Pimple-Popping Triangle of Death Sounds Made Up. It Isn’t.

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