It’s kind of amazing how the tiniest differences between the eyeliners in your makeup kit can completely alter not only your application experience but also your finished look. If you’ve ever attempted to fill in your waterline with a felt-tip liquid liner, you get it. Or maybe you don’t get it—and that’s okay, too. Eyeliner can be a wildly confusing category that leaves many of us too intimidated to try certain formulas or not make the most of the ones we regularly use.

Once you understand what each eyeliner format does best, it becomes less about perfect technique (though that doesn’t hurt) and more about choosing the right one for the look you want to create. To help break the eyeliner code, we turned to makeup artists who use all of these formulas professionally, so you can figure out how the different types fit into your personal makeup style, your skill level, and your comfort zone.

We’re getting to the bottom of the most malleable type of pencil, the longest-wearing way to tightline, the easiest way to achieve precise graphic looks, and more. Here’s exactly what every type of eyeliner does best and how to use them like a pro.

Meet the experts:

• Christian Briceno is a makeup artist based in New York City.
• Steve Kassajikian is a makeup artist and director of global artistry at Urban Decay.
• Brenda Orduno is a Los Angeles-based makeup artist and senior product developer at Beauty Creations Cosmetics.
• Rose Siard is a Houston-based makeup artist, founder of Rose & Ben Beauty, and the Allure Readers’ Choice Award winner for favorite beauty creator.
• Tiesha Williams is a makeup artist based in Los Angeles.

Traditional pencil eyeliner

What it is

Raise your hand if traditional pencil eyeliner was your gateway into the world of eye makeup. I’m typing this sentence with one hand because I’m raising the other. It’s one of the most beginner-friendly formats because it offers control without demanding strict precision, which is why so many people keep using it decades beyond their earliest eyeliner attempts.

“A traditional pencil is usually a little firmer and more forgiving, which makes it great for beginners or anyone who wants soft definition without committing to a super-sharp line,” says Rose Siard, a Houston-based makeup artist, founder of Rose & Ben Beauty, and the Allure Readers’ Choice Award winner for favorite beauty creator. She favors the Make Up For Ever Artist Color Pencil because "it’s pigmented, blendable, and works really well when you want control without harshness."

Compared with softer formulas like kohl or gel (stay tuned for those), traditional pencils are firmer with a little more tug (a good one doesn’t have too much, though), which allows you to build intensity instead of instantly plopping on a bold stripe. Christian Briceno, a makeup artist based in Los Angeles, explains that this grip is exactly what makes them useful professionally: “I like that resistance because it lets me apply the definition gradually rather than deposit a heavy line all at once.”

Unlike liquid formulas, which have a more high-impact finish, traditional pencils tend to look more blended. Even a deep black pencil can feel softer and more natural because the pigment doesn’t sit as sharply on top of the skin.

Uses

Traditional pencil eyeliner is quite the multitasker. It’s ideal for everyday lash line definition, subtly filling gaps between lashes, softly extending the outer corner, or creating the first layer of a smoky eye—if you act fast. “While it is smudge-capable, you just need to be a bit quicker to do so, as it will dry down to lock into place,” says Steve Kassajikian, makeup artist and director of global artistry at Urban Decay.

Siard likes using these pencils to “lightly map out a wing” before committing to a stronger shape, while Briceno reaches for them when he wants definition that feels effortless rather than obviously drawn on. “This is also one of my favorite formulas for textured lids,” Briceno says. Because you can work in small sections and soften the line, you have more flexibility than you would with a fast-drying liquid.

Pro tips

The biggest mistake beginners make with pencil eyeliner is attempting to draw one flawless, uninterrupted stroke from the inner corner to the outer corner. “My biggest tip is to use short strokes instead of trying to draw one perfect line,” Siard says.

For a natural, lash-enhancing effect, Briceno suggests pressing the pencil directly into the roots of your lashes rather than drawing a thick line above them. Concentrate the deepest intensity at the outer third of the eye and gradually lighten the pressure as you move inward.

Both Siard and Briceno say that a pencil that feels a little too sharp can be softened a bit on the back of your hand. “You still get precision without the pencil scratching or catching,” says Briceno, who’s a fan of Mineral Fusion Eye Pencil for its balance of smoothness and control.

Kohl and kajal

What it is

If a traditional pencil is your everyday definition tool, kohl and kajal, which have roots in ancient Egypt and are widely used in South Asia and the Middle East, are the pencils you reach for when you want your eyeliner to feel smokier and a little bit more dramatic. “Kohl is richer, softer, and more generous with pigment,” says Briceno. “It is designed to move, which is why it creates that smoked, slightly lived-in effect so well.”

Kohl and kajal pencils (kajal is the Hindustani word for kohl) are all about intentional smudging. “If you want to do a smoky eye, this would be your best bet,” says Tiesha Williams, a makeup artist based in Los Angeles. Their blendable creaminess is what makes them perfect for creating that blurred eyeliner look, but also why it calls for a lighter touch.

It’s worth noting that when you buy a kajal or kohl pencil in the US, you’re not using the actual ingredient kohl. “Actual kohl is banned because of high heavy metal levels,” says cosmetic chemist Kelly Dobos, who adds that it’s unsafe in the eye area. “But the use as a marketing term ‘kohl’ is okay as long as no actual kohl is used.” So when you’re using a kajal or kohl pencil, it’s been formulated to mimic the smudginess of the traditional crushed minerals, unlike other formulas that set more quickly.

Uses

Kohl and kajal pencils are made for looks that don’t require a perfectly crisp edge. Use it to create a smoky eye, as Williams mentioned, create a smudged wing, or even add a wash of color across the lid. Pressed between the upper lashes, it can also make lashes appear fuller without leaving an obvious line.

Unlike liquid liner that announces exactly where the line begins and ends, kohl and kajal create dimension that feels more diffused. Briceno loves Victoria Beckham Beauty Satin Kajal Liner when he wants the eyes to feel “sensual rather than precise” because the formula gives you time to shape and smoke it without feeling greasy or unstable.

Pro tips

Because kohl formulas are softer, resist the urge to press hard. “Be gentle when using kohl because the creamy, buttery texture makes it delicate and easy to break during application,” says Williams, who likes to use Black Radiance Eye Appeal Blending Kohl because its built-in smudger tip makes it easy to create a smoldering effect. Instead, build the intensity in layers, starting at the outer corner, where you want the most depth, and blend inward. Applying too much product across the entire eye at once can make the shape harder to control.

For the waterline, Briceno recommends applying one layer and letting the eye blink before adding more. That allows the pigment to transfer subtly into the lashes for a softer, more natural-looking finish.

Gel pencil eyeliner

What it is

Think of a gel pencil as the middle ground between a traditional pencil and a liquid liner, combining convenience with staying power. “A gel pencil gives you the ease of a pencil with more payoff and wear time,” says Siard. “It usually glides on creamier, then sets, so you get a little playtime before it locks in.”

“Gels are more versatile as, unlike liquid, they don’t require as steady a hand and can be blurred and smudged or sharp and graphic,” says Kassajikian, who adds that they’re generally waterproof. Although it can feel soft like kohl and kajal, which are designed to stay smudgeable, gel pencil typically dries down and holds its shape after you’ve blended it (if that’s what you choose to do).

Uses

Gel pencils are truly do-it-alls, ideal when you want any kind of definition that’s built to last. Williams particularly loves them for applications where durability matters, such as bridal makeup or television and film. “These are great for those waterproof-necessary moments,” she says.

They’re especially useful for tightlining, lining the waterline, creating smoky eyes that won’t disappear halfway through the day, and adding intensity along the lash line. Briceno says gel pencils are also a foolproof way to introduce color. “Navy, bronze, aubergine, or forest green can be worked into the lashes and still read as almost neutral,” he says.

Pro tips

Gel pencils give you a limited window of time to blend, and once they set, they’re staying put. “Work in small sections. Gel pencils can set quickly, so line, blend, then move on,” Siard advises. If you want a softer finish, smudge immediately with a small brush before the formula dries. Siard really appreciates the Urban Decay 24/7 Liquid Stick Retractable Liner for this: It wears beautifully once it sets, but it’s still incredibly easy to work with during application, thanks in part to its built-in brush. For a sharper wing, however, Siard suggests using a bent liner brush like her own Rose and Ben Beauty E26 to refine the outer edge.

You may already know how clutch gel pencils come in for lasting waterline coverage, but for even more long-wearing intensity, Briceno suggests gently blotting away excess moisture with a clean cotton swab before applying the liner. The pigment will apply more evenly and usually last longer. He loves Lancôme Drama Liqui-Pencil for this purpose, saying, “I especially like it on the waterline and through the outer lashes, where I want strong pigment without forcing the eye into a hard graphic shape.”

Gel and cream pots

What it is

“Gel pot liners are creamy and highly pigmented, with a formula that glides on smoothly for easy, precise application with a brush,” says Brenda Orduno, a Los Angeles-based makeup artist and senior product developer at Beauty Creations Cosmetics. The format gives you the clean, bold finish of a liquid formula, but because it’s so creamy and you apply it with a brush, you have more control over the shape, thickness, and intensity.

That extra step of applying with a separate brush may sound intimidating, but it’s also what makes this formula so customizable. “A gel pot is great when you want control,” says Siard. “You’re applying it with a brush, so you can decide if you want a tight line, a clean wing, or something more dramatic.”

Uses

Gel or cream pot liner is one of the most versatile eyeliner formulas, making it excellent for classic wings, cat eyes, tightlining, graphic liner, and even smoky eyes. “With a gel pot, the brush controls the line’s personality,” Briceno says. “I can use the same product for almost invisible definition between the lashes, a polished wing, or something much more graphic. It has more body than liquid, so it is easier to place and correct, yet it still produces a cleaner, more saturated result than most pencils.”

You can create an ultra-thin line at the inner corner, gradually build thickness toward the outer edge, or use the product as a base for a smoky shadow look. Orduno notes that its creamy texture also allows it to be blended before it sets, making gel or cream pot liner a good option for anyone who wants precision without feeling locked into a single look.

Pro tips

Orduno recommends applying gel liner in “short, thin strokes for a smoother, more precise line” rather than trying to create a perfect shape in one motion.

You’ll also want to avoid loading too much product onto the brush, which can make the liner drag, skip, or create a thicker line than intended. Briceno recommends coating both sides of the brush, wiping away any excess, and making sure the bristles come to a clean edge before applying.

Diligent storage cannot be understated. “Keep the cap closed as much as possible so it doesn’t dry out,” says Siard, who, like so many Allure editors, is a fan of Jones Road Gel Liner. Briceno suggests decanting only a small amount onto a clean palette and closing the jar immediately so the texture stays consistent. And for the love of all things holy, “Clean your brush after each use for precise application and better hygiene,” Orduno says.

Felt-tip liquid eyeliner

What it is

Essentially the marker version of eyeliner, liquid liner in felt-tip pen form offers a firm applicator that helps create clean lines. “It’s great for crisp lines, quick wings, and anyone who likes a more structured look,” says Siard, who loves Stila Stay All Day Waterproof Liquid Eye Liner because it makes it easy to achieve anything from a thin line to a more dramatic wing. Briceno enthusiastically seconds that product recommendation.

Compared with liquid liner brushes, felt-tip pens tend to be faster and more straightforward to use, and they offer more stability because the applicator doesn’t flex nearly as much. That firmness can be a benefit, especially if you’re new to winged liner, but it can also make the formula slightly less forgiving on textured lids. As Briceno explains, “It creates a consistent line very well, but it may not move as gracefully over folds or textured skin as individual brush bristles.”

Uses

Felt-tip liquid liners are ideal for classic wings, cat eyes, and crisp upper-lash definition, any look where you want the eyeliner to feel intentional, noticeable, and polished.

“The point is useful for small corrections, especially filling tiny gaps between the lashes or refining the upper edge of a wing,” Briceno says, adding that felt-tip pens are also helpful for filling in graphic looks with the utmost precision.

Pro tips

Repeat after me: Don’t rush the wing! Siard recommends mapping your wing with your eyes open before connecting it to the lash line. “Don’t stretch the eye too much because the shape can change once you let go,” she says. That advice becomes even more important as skin loses elasticity over time.

“I establish the direction of the wing while the eye is open and looking straight ahead, then connect it back to the lashes,” Briceno says of his winging technique. “The shape should respond to the actual eye, not to an angle imagined while the lid is closed.”

He also recommends using the side of the felt tip for most of the lash line rather than dragging only the point from corner to corner. The side gives you a smoother, more consistent application, while the tip is best saved for small details and the final wing.

Brush-tip liquid eyeliner

What it is

Brush-tip liquid liner is the most artistic—and often the most intimidating—of the eyeliner lineup. Instead of a firm felt tip, the flexible bristles allow you to create everything from an ultrathin inner corner to a dramatic, graphic wing. “A liquid brush liner is more expressive than a felt tip because the bristles respond directly to pressure,” Briceno says.

Unlike a felt-tip pen, which delivers a relatively consistent line, a brush liner behaves more like a tiny paintbrush. “That flexibility gives you a more elegant taper, but it also reveals every hesitation in the hand,” he adds.

Uses

Liquid brush liner is the formula to choose when you want precision with bold color payoff, Orduno says. It’s ideal for dramatic wings, emphasized inner corners, and graphic editorial shapes like negative-space liner, essentially any look where the eyeliner itself is the centerpiece.

While Kassajikian appreciates the high level of ink-like pigment it provides, he warns that it may not be the most beginner-friendly, nor the most smoky eye-friendly. “The formula will dry down, so it doesn’t leave much room for mistakes and isn’t suggested for smudging,” he says.

Briceno loves it for looks that need to feel fluid rather than stamped onto the eye, recommending MAC Liquidlast 24-Hour Waterproof Liner for liner that stays crisp and intact for hours. A brush applicator is especially good for creating a long, narrowing tail, he says, adding, “As the pressure lifts, the bristles naturally close into a finer point.”

Pro tips

Brush-tip liquid liner rewards patience. If you’re used to pencils or pens, the flexibility can initially feel unfamiliar. Briceno recommends anchoring your elbow, loosening your grip, and allowing the brush to do the work. “Holding the applicator too tightly makes every small movement of the hand more visible.”

Rather than attempting one perfect stroke, map the shape with small marks (noticing a pattern here?) while looking straight ahead, then connect them, he advises. This helps ensure the liner follows your actual eye shape instead of an angle that only works when your lid is closed. “I would rather build it gradually on a relaxed eye,” he says.

Orduno also recommends starting with small strokes and letting the liner dry completely before layering or touching the area to prevent smudging. She also emphasizes keeping the cap closed when you’re not dipping in for more color, so the liquid doesn’t get a chance to dry out.

For the perfect cat eye, “Start mid-eyelid and follow the lash line, flicking up slightly at the end,” Kassajikian says. “To thicken the line, start at the outermost point of the line you just drew and connect it to the innermost tip of the line at your mid-eyelid.”

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• 9 Best Bronzers for a Vacation-Inspired Glow

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