Fashion

Anthony Vaccarello marked his tenth year at Saint Laurent by turning the Trocadéro fountain into a golden dream—a giant gold chandelier hung over the runway, the Eiffel Tower sparkled in the background, and for a moment it felt as though all of Paris had dressed up for the occasion.

Then came the gold, and there was a lot of it. It ranged from bright, buttery 24K to deeper, antique shades, and Vaccarello showed us how wearable it can be. Crinkled lamé was cut into safari-style jackets, cropped bombers and belted trench coats, often matched with a midi skirt for a full head-to-toe glow. Shoulders stayed sharp, jackets were worn open, and long chiffon scarves in olive, rust and navy floated behind the models like ribbons, and the highlight was the gold lace halter dress, so richly embroidered it looked like jewellery.

After dark, the mood turned more dramatic; Black velvet jackets came with jewelled gold buttons and oversized bows, a nod to the 1980s that felt fresh again, while billowing organza gowns with sculpted sleeves and thigh-high slits stole every eye—chandelier earrings and bejewelled turbans added a little extra sparkle. The show closed with black gowns with dramatic trains, and Charlotte Gainsbourg then sang in a classic Saint Laurent black suit before Vaccarello walked out to warm applause.

It is easy to see what his vision is for the brand, and over ten years, he has built a world around strong shoulders, the going-out dress and the spirit of Le Smoking, and this season he polished each of them to a high shine. Gold is the colour of celebration, after all, and it is also the colour of confidence.

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Images: Supplied