Considering how many of us claim that mascara is the one item of makeup we won’t leave the house without wearing, you’d think it would be easier to figure out. It should go as follows: open tube, swipe wand through lashes, admire transformation. But anyone who’s ever ended up with four crumbly, chunky, mega lashes where individual ones used to be has come to the realization that there’s a little more planning and skill involved.

Do you need to pick the right product for your specific lash goals? Of course. But in addition to a wisely chosen formula, the difference between a beautifully lifted, fluttery effect and a clumpy, smudged one often comes down to what you do before the wand ever comes near your eyes, how much product you leave on the bristles, and which technique you use to apply the mascara. Yes, there’s more than one. But don’t worry, everything’s pretty easy to master.

We asked makeup artists Valeria Nichols, Jenny Patinkin, and Tim Quinn to give us their no-fail pro tips for prepping for mascara, applying it, and—because even the most skilled wand wielder still makes mistakes—cleaning up any mess. It’s finally time to feel like you’re controlling your mascara instead of the other way around.

Meet the experts:

• Valeria Nichols is a makeup artist based in Scottsdale, Arizona.
• Jenny Patinkin is a makeup artist and brand founder.
• Tim Quinn is a makeup artist and cofounder of Halo42.

How to prep for mascara application

If you’re not starting with the cleanest possible lashes, you’re signing up for self-sabotage. And that means making sure that even invisible schmutz has been removed. “Start with completely clean, dry lashes, free of eye cream, oils, leftover mascara, or micellar water residue,” says Nichols. Any lingering moisture or oil can interfere with how mascara adheres and may contribute to smudging, so she likes to gently pat lashes dry with a clean tissue or run a clean spoolie through them before applying mascara.

Curling is also worth the few extra seconds if you’re working with straight or downward-pointing lashes. “Curling your lashes makes a huge difference and can make the eyes look much bigger, even before any mascara gets applied,” says Patinkin. And that’s exactly when all three artists agree the curling should happen—before applying mascara. Clamping down on coated lashes can cause them to stick to the curler and potentially break or even get pulled out. For the most effective and least damaging approach, Quinn recommends gently curling at the base of the lashes and then again toward the middle to create a softer curve rather than a severe bend.

As for eyelash primer, it’s not a prerequisite—especially when you’ve got a clean canvas—but it also won’t hurt. Quinn reaches for it when he wants serious length, fullness, and staying power, and insists on applying mascara while the primer is still slightly tacky. “I've long loved Lancôme Cils Booster XL,” he says. We’re also fans of the wildly affordable Essence Lash Princess Mascara Primer.