Fashion

At NYWF, Veronica Leoni continues to sharpen her vision for Calvin Klein with the SS27 collection that finds strength in restraint. Presented at Terminal Warehouse in New York, the show returned to the house’s foundational language of clean silhouettes, considered tailoring and clothes stripped of unnecessary decoration. Leoni looked to the wardrobe of artist Georgia O’Keeffe, translating her preference for functional, well-made clothing into crisp cotton blazers, straight-leg jeans, slim skirts, slip dresses, and understated jackets. The palette stayed largely neutral, with black, white, grey, and soft denim creating a quiet backdrop for the collection.

Minimalism was treated as a design discipline rather than an absence of ideas. High-waisted denim, tailored trousers, and cotton suiting were balanced with fluid silk jersey, bandeau tops, and bias-cut dresses. Grey trench coats introduced a subtle pattern, while layers were kept easy to repeat—the collection displayed Calvin Klein’s history without becoming archival, reflecting Leon’s approach of refining the house codes rather than simply recreating them. The result was pared back but sensual, with the body remaining central to the clothes.

There were moments of glamour, too; a white bias-cut slip dress used the matte and shiny sides of silk to create subtle movement, while other pieces played with the contrast between clean surfaces and body underneath. The overall effect was polished but never overdone—rather than chasing novelty, Calvin Klein SS27 makes a case for clothes that earn their place in a wardrobe—Leoni’s latest offering feels confident precisely because it knows when to stop.

The Calvin Klein front row brought together a mix of established names and cultural figures, including Katie Holmes, who attended alongside Jason Bard Yarmosky in coordinated neutral looks. Solange Knowles was also closely associated with the presentation, appearing in Calvin Klein’s own SS27 campaign and show content, while Teyana Taylor was seated alongside her at the Terminal Warehouse. Calvin Klein APAC face Lingling Kwong was also in attendance, adding an international dimension to the guest list. Together, the guests reflected the understated, modern sensibility of Veronica Leoni’s latest collection.

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Images: Supplied